A City Full of History

      Welcome to the Rochester Virtual Walkabout. From here I will walk you in a big loop from Fitzhugh to Main St, up to East Ave., back to Pleasant St. and down to the middle of the Andrews St Bridge. All this to show you some successes and some losses of the architectural history of a city that blossomed during the heyday of the Erie Canal. Because of that canal and the waterfalls of the Genesee river Rochester became one of the richest cities of the US, mostly for our Flour Mills, but also for our ability to move merchandise quickly to the ports of NYC. As a result Rochester had an early boom time and it is reflected in the architecture of that time.

   Much of that early time has been destroyed in the inevitable urban renewal projects. However, citizens of our city banded together in the 1970's to work to preserve the more notable buildings in the entire region. As a result we still have with us wonderful examples of what made our city famous. It flowed into our city logo and title of Flower city. 

   When my wife and I first moved here in 2009 I couldn't help but stare in awe of the beautiful old buildings I saw everywhere I looked. It was obvious to me this city had a rich history and that is my passion as an artist - history. I began sketching them and slowly walking the downtown area to drink it all in. Over time I developed a relationship with the Landmark Society of Western NY and over 9 years have created countless renditions of the sites of this city - both Grand and Small details. 

   Now in this Blog I bring 8 of the downtown sites to you as a Virtual Walkabout. You have scanned the QR code at station #1, The Academy Building. Follow the maps in each post to get to the next station and enjoy the view of the city as it was in the early 1900's.

The Starting Point

 

    Built in 1873 the Academy Building was designed by A.J. Warner, one of the most prolific architects for the entire western NY area, this site was rich in the cultural and economic history of this city. Standing four stories tall as a beautiful example of High-Victorian Gothic architecture. A style full of pointed arches, ornamental columns, heavy dental molding and plenty of what would later be nick named cast iron widow makers, The ornamental railing along the peaks of the roof. The name is a literal description of why we see so little of it today. It was the first High-School for the city, later a Municipal Court and int the 20's as the seat of the Board of Education. It saw some renovations in the 80's but later abandoned.

   I can remember the first time I saw it when I moved here in 2009. I could see whole sections of the high peaked roof missing giving me a clear view of the attic space. At the time I hoped someone would see the potential and fix it up. Now after much work it sits here with a new lease on life as a mixed use building. A resplendent gem worth saving.

The Four Corners

 

   From the sidewalk opposite The Academy Building you now need to walk north to Main St. and head east two blocks to the east corner of Main St and Exchange Blvd. From here you can look across the street to the northwest corner of Main and State St. at out next landmark, The Powers Building.

   Also designed by Andrew Jackson Warner, the Powers building was initially built in 1869. However, due to the owners' obsession with having the tallest building in the city additions were built in 1874, 80, 88 and 91 ending with the tower and flagpole. Looking at it you can see where the original construction ends and the newer additions start being that the popular style of architecture changed over time. 

   For me, the first time I saw it I was struck by how majestic it looked. It definitely exuded its' name "Powers" When I learned the quirk of its' architectural style I had to laugh at the pomposity and arrogance of the original owner. However, that fight to be the tallest left us with a unique building with a flair for style. When researching to find out what had changed on this building, beyond the obvious changes to the ground floor I was pleasantly impressed at the fine details included that sadly are no longer there.

Now East of the River

 

   From Station 2, viewing the Powers building, you are going to continue east to the southwest corner of Main St. and South Ave. From here you will look across to the northeast corner of Main and St. Paul St. at The Granite Building.

   The Granite building was designed by J foster Warner, A.J. Warner's son , and built in 1893. It was the first steel skeletal building in Rochester and considered to be indestructible. As was often the case of this time period - that statement came back to haunt them. In 1904 Rochester suffered what is still considered the worst fire to befall the city, called the Sibley Fire. While the exteriors walls and steel structure did hold up the fire was so intense that the building was left gutted as well as 3 blocks of destruction along side from St. Paul to Clinton Ave.

   What drew me to this building was the ornate details included in what would be considered a "Mundane" business building. The demand for detail on the facade was normal practice for the time, even down to the Floral bolts used on the nuts tying the I beams together that no one can see.

   The fact that it was restored rather than demolished shows the importance that was placed on this building. Possibly by the architect and builder to prove their belief in its indestructability.

An Institution

 

   From Station #3 you will now continue 4 blocks east to the corner of Main St. and East Ave. There are two station here. But I will do this in two posts. First of all, Looking across the street due west is the newly renovated Sibley's Square building.

   Before this building was built the Sibley's Department store was housed in the Granite building that you viewed at the last station. Even before the fire of 1904 it was determined that they had outgrown it and had made plans for the building of the Sibley's Square building. However, the fire forced them to accelerate those plans.

   Over the next two years the store opened in completed sections of the building and as the construction continued different departments within the store kept moving around as space opened up. The original building was completed in 1906 with the addition of the Baroque styled clock tower. J. Foster Warner designed it as the next generation skeletal steel building using what is called the Chicago School Style. The taller section of the building, called the Mercantile building was added in 1911 and we have what we see now.

   I am genuinely pleased to see the new work being done not only to restore the building, especially the restoration of the clock tower, but to also bring business's back into it. Rochester needs to work harder to bring vitality back to the downtown scene.

Reaching to Heaven

     From the same spot as the last station you can look directly north to the next landmark, The Temple Building. Tall and stately the owners tried a new idea for their time, multi-use design.

   In early 1920 the pastor of the Second Baptist Church, Rev. Clinton Wunder, convinced his parishioners that they had outgrown their church and needed to build a bigger one. He wanted to build a 9 story building that housed the church and office space to accommodate the church as well as space for their ministries. Over time that changed to the 14 story building we see today. 

   It opened its' door in 1925 and during Sunday services was frequently so full that they had to turn people away. At some point the church moved away. But, a few years ago the auditorium was renovated and restored and houses a new church. 

   The style begins to show hints of what we would think of when you bring to mind "Modern" Architecture yet at the same time there is a bit of a flair to it. I was a little surprised at its age because of the details seen from a distance but as I did work on illustrating it the touches of "Deco" showed themselves to me. Still, a vey handsome building.

Fit the Space you're given

 

    Moving across the street from the last two stations is our next stop, The Sibley's Triangle building. This time you are now looking Southeast.

   Designed and built by J. Foster Warner in 1897 for Hiram Sibley Jr. This building was specifically designed to house multiple businesses and it did well as such for over 100 years. It's resemblance to the "Flat Iron" building of NYC definitely made it a draw for many retailers, businesses and other organizations. 

   Its' design is a play off of the eclectic Italian Renaissance architecture popular at the time. The drop off of interest in the downtown area had its toll on this building. However, due to its' unique shape and design it has avoided the wrecking ball. With the renewed interest now, with the Midtown Plaza and Sibley's Square renovation there is new hope for the Triangle building too.

To the Rescue

     Now, From Station #6 by Liberty Pole you will walk North around the Sibley's Square Building and parking garage to the South east corner of Pleasant St. and Clinton Ave. From there look east to our next landmark, the remains of the St. Joseph's Church.

  The church was originally built in 1843-46 in the Greek Revival Style popular before the Civil War. It was enlarged to the standard Cruciform style in 1846 enabling it to seat up to 1000 people. This, Though is a example of a landmark that was rescued from near oblivion. 

   The Church survived as an active church up till 1974 when a devastating fire broke out destroying it and the adjacent rectory. Because of its' history of being the largest catholic church inside the inner loop - or - downtown area, there was almost immediate interest in trying to save something of this church.

   In collaboration between the catholic church and the Landmark Society of Western NY a deal was struck to purchase the land and convert the facade and tower into a park. It gave our city a place to look back on its history and provided event space for parties and weddings. 

   For me, it simply was a way to preserve and honor the people of our city that came before us.

A Total Loss

    Now finally, From Station #7 you will walk west on Pleasant St., cross over St. Paul St., head north to Andrews St and walk west to a point half way across the Bridge over the Genesee River to your last stop and face south looking toward the Main St. bridge.

   In one form or another there has been a bridge here since 1810. Four separate rebuilds. The second built in 1824 and later replaced in 1838. This last one remained in use up until the early 1960's when it was replaced with the bridge we have today.

   Because of a unique law allowing structures to be built on the bridge due to the fact that the river wasn't navigable the bridge was built up with buildings connecting both the north and south sides to buildings on land. As a result, up till the 1960's driving up main street you would not have seen the river at all. Over time these building were destroyed by fire or flood but always replaced.

   The image below is the view you would see of the Main St. bridge while crossing the Andrews St. bridge. The first time I saw pictures of the bridge I was intrigued. It reminded me of the famous "Ponte" bridge in Italy. While I am sad to know that it was torn down and rebuilt to what we now have, it is also one of the few times I understand the need for its' removal, being structurally a dangerous idea at the least. It is why I strive to document these sites the way I do. Still, this is a definite loss for our history.